At just shy of 140,000 gross tonnes, with a capacity of almost 4000 passengers, Navigator of the Seas was the world’s largest cruise ship from her launch in 2002 up to 2005, but is, incredibly, now a mid-sized member of Royal Caribbean's fleet.
The ship does, however, have many of the amenities found on its newer, larger, sisters, including multiple bars, restaurants, and endless distractions for children.
Aboard, two things about the ship are striking. First, it’s width. This isn’t so obvious inside the huge broadwalk area, but when you’re on a high deck, looking down on spaces that have two swimming pools, side by side, you realise that this ship is massive. Secondly, the space available, despite the 4000 other passengers, is remarkable - it was never difficult to find a quiet space in a bar or lounge.
The ship also contains a surprising amount of art, including some Dale Chihuly glass sculptures.
What we’re trying to say is that you shouldn’t be put off by the large size or mass-market position of this ship - it’s actually quite pleasant.
Royal Caribbean has, perhaps more than any other company, defined what we now expect in modern mass-market cruising. Back in the early 1970s, when Carnival and Norwegian were sailing a motley collection of aged ocean liners and warmed over ferries, Royal Caribbean order three purpose-built ships, launched in consecutive years, from 1970. Song of Norway, along with her sister ships, Nordic Prince and Sun Viking, introduced features that have no become trademarks of the Royal Caribbean experience, notably the Viking Crown lounge, wrapped around the funnel.
Since then, Royal Caribbean has continued to introduce new ship classes which represent a step-change from what came before them, from the first modern megaship, 1988’s Sovereign of The Seas, through to the 6500 passenger leviathans of the Oasis class, four of which have been launched since 2009.
Royal Caribbean ships are filled with features to keep the whole family entertained, from rock climbing walls to surfing simulators. The large size of most of the ships in the fleet mean that there are plenty of options of eating and drinking, many of which are arranged around an internal “broadwalk” that has become a hallmark of the line. These vast internal spaces, lined with the windows of interior staterooms with a “view” highlight just how large these ships are and lead to charges that the whole experience has become too removed from the sea and the ports - everything on the ship faces inwards. If you’re holiday choices are dominated by the need to entertain children and teenagers, you may not think this a terrible idea.
The overall verdict on Fred Olsen? Tolerable, but not for us.
The problem is that nothing was outstandingly good. In terms of soft product, the service was friendly, but slow, the food was mediocre and the selection of drinks and wines was poor. Being an older ship, the hard product is also not competitive - there are few rooms with balconies and none of the additional or expanded features (such as a large spa) that you’d find on a modern vessel.
We also found this ship far more crowded than much larger ones we’ve sailed on - finding a quiet place to sit was a challenge.
Furthermore, this was not a cheap option, like CMV, Fred Olsen’s average daily rates are at the higher end of the mass market, which makes their penny-pinching refusal to accept American Express all the more exasperating.
We won’t be rushing back.
Given that this was a short cruise, we carried our own luggage off, the entire process taking only a few minutes.
There’s plenty of pickup space at the Port of Tyne, so arranging and then finding an Uber wasn’t a problem and the city centre and train station is only a short drive away.
Once again, we were fortunate to be sat next to a lovely group of people for dinner. Sadly, they were not representative of the other passengers we came across on this ship.
As we’ve said before, there didn’t seem to be any “quiet corners” on this cruise, so most coffees and drinks included a side of other people’s loud conversations.
Conversations like “how can you pretend that Sir Mo Farah is British?”
Discussions about no longer watching rugby because “most of the team aren’t really English”. To say nothing of limitless excitement about the return or blue passports and the end of immigration.
To be clear, this was not a single conversation, but a sample of the many that were taking place around us. We appreciate that, being based in London, we are probably the “out of touch metropolitan elite” - frankly, I’ll take that over whatever this group were any day.
This is to say nothing of people on one sofa audibly judging the drinking habits of strangers around them; weird arguments over seating priority in the card room and the aforementioned restaurant incident.
It may be coincidence or bad luck, I can’t imagine Fred Olsen has a policy of marketing themselves exclusively to deplorables, but I’m in no rush to take a second sample. On no other cruise ship have we felt so out of place or so eager to escape.
In a nutshell, trivia quizzes and bridge. A lot of people on this ship seem to take bridge very seriously.
There’s also a bit of live music in various bars and shows in the main theatre. But, as we’ve said previously, this is not a massive ship, so don’t book expecting ziplines and Broadway musicals.
One of the advantages a smaller ship, like Balmoral, has when cruising in Norway is the ability to sail slowly right into the fjord systems. Much of this voyage was spent gliding serenely between vertical sheets of rock in Lysefjord and Hardangerfjord, pausing at some of the more notable waterfalls. If your prime concern is spectacular scenery, this cruise cannot really be faulted.
There were two ports. In Bergen, cruise ships dock in the centre of the city, which is perfectly sized to explore on foot.
We also spent a day in Eidfjord, which is pretty but tiny - Balmoral dominated the town’s small hotel and a SPAR shop. There really wasn’t much to do, along with hundreds of other passengers, we walked up to a nearby lake, much to the bemusement of some campers who clearly thought they had the place to themselves.
Balmoral doesn’t have a vast spa and thermal complex as you might find on newer ships, however, we were massively impressed with it. In part thanks to the excellent massage, but mainly because there was no hard-sell on products during or afterwards.
Be warned though, the walls in the treatment area, perched above the bows, are very thin - we could hear every detail of the conversation taking place in the neighbouring room.
There are cruise reviewers and bloggers out there who speak of the food aboard Fred Olsen in tones of hushed wonderment. Honestly, we were excited.
The main dining room on this ship is supplemented by two smaller rooms, which serve the same menu, but offer a nicer setting - most of the ables having views. We were lucky enough to be allocated a table in one of the smaller dining rooms, which, I assume, suite passengers are given priority on. However, I’m at a loss to explain why Fred Olsen haven’t used these two spaces for alternative, or premium, restaurants - instead, “The Grill” uses a roped-off area of the buffet each evening.
Breakfast was OK. The fruit, particularly the segments of orange and pink grapefruit were fresh and, throughout the ship, the baked goods were of high standard; rolls were excellent, but even croissants and pain au raisin were tasty, without the waxy dullness so often found on airlines and cruise ships. The cooked options for breakfast didn’t look too appetising, but people seemed to be keen on them.
Lunch in the main dining rooms was probably the most consistently successful meal - calamari fritti followed by lasagne being typical.
Dinner was odd. The Indian option seemed to be the best bet each night - a vegetable curry on the first night and a curried butter fish later in the cruise being very good. Other choices failed to deliver - particularly a really bad roast turkey and the worst soup we’ve ever had the misfortune to sample. It was listed as “chilled papaya and chilli”; so help us, we imagined some sort of interesting re-interpretation of gazpacho. Instead, what arrived was pale pink cream. It was indescribably bad - tasteless, freezing cold, awful mouth feel. Desserts were, well, traditional and, seemingly, sized to suit a calorie controlled diet.
It should be noted that all portions in the Main Dining Room were laughable - always very small. You will have noted the generous serving of two whole rings of calamari in the picture above. We were also served a slice of cheesecake the size of a pinky - they surely had to use a medical scalpel to slice them so thinly.
Service in the Main Dining Room was pretty slow, although our waiter did become particularly attentive - I suspect because we were the only people ordering wine that wasn’t on the all-inclusive list, so the only ones signing a bill and tipping him.
We did eat in “The Grill” premium restaurant one night - service was good, but the menu was unimaginative. None of the steak options appealed, so we ended up with a caesar salad then an overcooked “fish mixed grill”. As mentioned earlier, this “restaurant” is in an odd location, at the back of the buffet. The evening was also slightly marred by a very odd couple seated at a table nearby who clearly had an issue with us, asked to move, then sat across the room, glaring at us and clearly discussing us with the, presumably disinterested, family now seated next to them. We never did establish what the issue was - the, clearly mortified, waiter was discrete. The thought that we were talking too loudly occured (one of the party has hearing issues) but that had never been a problem in three previous decades of eating out. Maybe we were dressed to casually, although we did double-check that the formal dress code did not apply in The Grill. All very strange; although, as we’ll detail in a subsequent post, Fred Olsen does seem to attract a higher proportion of people we’d normally try our best to avoid than any other line we’ve come across.
Finally, there’s the buffet - it’s not huge, but the food was passable. The selection below comes from fajita night. The guacamole was not great - it was that weird shiny staff that comes with an unfeasibly long Use By date.
Being an older ship, cabins with a balcony are few and far between on Balmoral, so we opted for a standard outside twin.
The cabin didn’t have much to commend or condemn it - comfortable, if tired, is about as much as can be said.
The bathroom was, however, a sensible size - the shower far more spacious than the tiny corner that’s provided in standard cabins on most new ships.